Chas Smith
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Chas Smith grew up deeply enmeshed in the evangelical Christian world that flourished in Southern California in the late 1960s. His family included famous missionaries and megachurch pastors, but his cousin Daniel Courson was Grandma's favorite. Smith looked up to Cousin Danny. He was handsome, adventurous, and smart; earned a degree from Bible college; and settled into a family and a stable career. Needless to say, it was a big surprise when Cousin...
2) Welcome to paradise, now go to hell: a true story of violence, corruption, and the soul of surfing
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"For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, Oahu's paradisical North Shore turns into a fiery hell. Its normal population of sixteen thousand more than triples and this explosion of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans creates one of the most combustible milieus on earth. Waves, like gold and oil, are a limited resource and, as such, are fiercely fought over by the visiting hoards, the surf industry, other Hawaiian...