Barbarian days: a surfing life

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Publisher:
Varies, see individual formats and editions
Pub. Date:
2015.
Language:
English
Description
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly--he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui--is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan's surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

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ISBN:
9780143109396
9780698163744
9781594203473
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Grouping Information

Grouped Work ID 991b070b-140f-2b3b-68fc-26e70e108b03
Grouping Title barbarian days a surfing life
Grouping Author finnegan william
Grouping Category book
Last Grouping Update 2018-12-13 22:53:58PM
Last Indexed 2018-12-14 00:10:12AM

Solr Details

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display_description Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
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primary_isbn 9780143109396
publishDate 2015, 2016
record_details ils:CARL0000465777|Book|Books||English|Penguin Press,|2015.|447 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm., ils:CARL0000679087|Book|Books||English|Penguin Books, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC,|2016.|447 pages : illustrations ; 22 cm, overdrive:0334ecd1-db1b-499e-b214-1a152439d2c4|eBook|eBook||English|Penguin Publishing Group|2015|
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subject_facet Autobiographies, Finnegan, William, Surfers -- United States -- Biography
title_display Barbarian days : a surfing life
title_full Barbarian Days A Surfing Life, Barbarian days : a surfing life / William Finnegan
title_short Barbarian days :
title_sub a surfing life
topic_facet Autobiographies, Biography & Autobiography, Finnegan, William, Nonfiction, Sports & Recreations, Surfers, Travel