"When their train makes a ten-minute stop at the station in Jaipur, a young girl and her mother hurry to get in line for a cup of chai. The girl orders two cups, and then delights in watching the chaiwala at work--grinding the spices, adding scoops of tea leaves and sugar to the bubbling, boiling milk, then cooling the chai by pouring it from high, back and forth, back and forth--the girl is mesmerized. With a biscuit and a rusk added to their order,...